There is a solution to every problem, just ask, even if the cause may be your fault.
Do not push the dog into a corner, maintain an empathetic and assertive approach to it.
Changes will not happen overnight, whatever you want to teach your dog, be aware that it may be a slower process.
Training is not only about pointing out what the dog does wrong, but also praising it for what it does well. Don't assume that one praise is enough and the dog will consider it as standard.
Socialize to as many things as possible from the start. Take the puppy with you wherever possible.
On the other hand, don't be with the dog 24 hours a day. The sooner it learns to be left alone sometimes (or regularly), the easier your life together will be.
Be prudent and don't let cute and harmless habits turn into unwanted behavior. Try to imagine the situation in a few years, either on a worse scale or more frequent, and tell yourself if you are okay with it. If not, ban these habits or regulate them from the start.
A dog cannot think in hypotheses, that is, it cannot imagine its life as it would be if it did not have any rules set. So do not dwell on the questions of how it would live if someone else took it, whether it would be happier in a different situation... Try to find a common ground between your comfort and its happiness within the pack, mutual safety and health prosperity, and do not break the rules once set.
Always remember that you are 100% responsible for your dog. In the event of an accident, no one will ask you if it is trained, if it listens to you at home, and if the accident was your fault or someone else's. Especially when it comes to major or minor injuries to a person's health, the fault is always the dog's, even if it isn't. Therefore, do not be reckless and always keep your dog under complete control, for the safety of others, as well as your own. Don't be ashamed to forbid people to pet it if it's not having a good day, don't leave it alone unattended in public places where passers-by people might want to pet it or provoke it, don't let it loose in busy places unless your recall is 100% successful.
Nothing is 100%. Even though it may seem like it is for a while, don't be lulled into a state of false security. Remember the PF - Prevention, Foresight. Don't leave things to a chance.
A dog's skeleton develops by the age of 1 year. So don't rush to include your dog in your active life and don't take it on too long walks. The general rule regarding the distances a puppy can manage is "every month, a kilometer". At 3 months, you can therefore go for a walk of 3 kilometers, etc. Do not confuse continuous movement with movement with the possibility of rest. It is clear that the puppy can run a lot more in a day; in this case it means a walk where you really keep walking all the time. It is also possible to try longer routes, but during them it is necessary to give the puppy half an hour to an hour to rest, and despite this, expect that it may get tired afterwards anyway and you will have to carry it home in your arms.
Leave more demanding sports such as running, cycling or long treks after the 1st birthday, preferably after X-ray examinations.
If you have stairs at home, carry your puppy up them as long as it is physically possible for you. The puppy will learn to go up and down on them on its own one way or another, but the constant running up and down can have a bad effect on the development of its skeleton. If it becomes physically impossible to carry the dog in your arms, make sure that the dog goes up and down the stairs very slowly.
Keep your dog in good condition. The puppy tends to be gluttonous and it encouraged to increase the dose during the period of rapid development, but keep it in athletic condition so that excess weight does not impair the development of the musculoskeletal system. Even an adult dog in athletic condition feels more comfortable than an overweight dog, although one would think that a fatter dog must be well fed. It is possible to feed the dog well and not let it get overweight.
Pay attention to the correct intonation when communicating with the dog. Try to make praise really sound like praise, and the same goes for punishment. Avoid a monotonous voice, and even if people outside will look at you strangely; try to convey the information as best as possible to the dog so that it always understands if it did something right or wrong.
Certainties in a dog's life are rituals. How and where you introduce these rituals is up to you, but it is important that you make these decisions consciously for your own needs, not just because it is needed for the dog. If you are not completely sure of the meaning of the ritual, there is a risk that you will tend not to keep it. This can cause confusion and insecurity in the dog, which in more extreme situations can manifest as fear or aggression.
CSW are usually very voracious animals and eat until there’s food left, not until they are full. Do not leave a full bowl available to the dog all the time (unlike water, that must be available to it always and everywhere) and feed according to age and physical condition in regular portions.
Consistency is the cornerstone of a well-behaved dog. A lot of people get fooled at first by having a small puppy at home, which is certainly very cute, and then have problems with discipline with an adult dog. Personally, I see it the other way around, and it is the little puppy that gets the strict regime, so that when it becomes adult, I am sure that it always understands exactly what I want from it and I can afford to pamper it a little.
Don't underestimate socialization. Deficiencies caused in youth are difficult and long to correct in adulthood.
Socialization is not a process only during the dog's youth, it is necessary to constantly renew and improve it throughout the dog's life.
Don't avoid situations just because they seem uncomfortable for the dog. Not only can this become problematic later in life, but the dog can get used to being able to avoid the activity in response to a certain reaction, even if it is not traumatic for it. Therefore, work on slow and sure habituation until the dog is psychologically at ease and on the subsequent consolidation of this feeling.