Solid short leash – a quality leash up to 2-3m long is the difference between a pleasant walk and a nightmare. Don't skimp on materials that can tear easily or carabiners that are prone to breaking. A solid leash is suitable for manipulation in a busy environment, as the dog will immediately feel the extension or pull of the leash.
Solid collar – a strong collar (on a buckle) should be wide enough so that it does not injure the dog in any way during use. The ideal width depends on the size of the dog, but generally a comfortable range of 2-3cm is acceptable
Amortized leash – leash suitable for walking and sports. It is partly rubber and therefore expandable, mainly saving the hand of the walker, because even if the dog decides to run violently after something, the person holding the leash still has a few useful seconds to prepare for it. Likewise with sports such as running, cycling, etc. the amortized leash dampens violent jerks.
Semi-choker collar – suitable for busy environments and handling the dog in places with reactive stimuli. The semi-choker is loose enough not to bother a dog on a slack leash, but can tighten enough to prevent the dog from pulling out collar – of it without getting strangled.
Harness – the type of harness depends mainly on the activity for which you are purchasing the harness for the dog. However, it is a very convenient helper. In general, it is recommended not to buy a Norwegian-type harness (with a belt over the dog's shoulders) because of the fixation of the front limbs, but rather a so-called Y-type with a belt along the sternum. These harnesses are either short (for normal walks and light pulling), or medium/long, developed for sports in which the dog is constantly pulling on weight. Long dog harnesses distribute the weight of the towed load (bikes, person, sled) over a larger area and do not put as much strain on the musculoskeletal system.
Long leash – a necessary aid for learning recall or general control of the dog at longer distances, going from 5m to 10, even 20m of length.
Reflective elements – equip your dog and yourself, especially for evening walks, with reflective elements to ensure your safety in low visibility conditions.
Highlighters – especially if you go for walks in the woods, highlighters are your friends. Having a dog that resembles a wolf is certainly convenient in many cases, when it comes to its safety at the moment of an accident when it runs after wild animal, it is better not to give potential forest guards even more reason to shoot your dog. Highlighters are a clearly visible sign that this is not a wild animal, but a pet.
Half body waist belt – this tool is not so much for the dog as it is for you. It is a very good helper when walking in nature and having your dog attached so that not only does it not put any strain on your musculoskeletal system, but you also have both hands free. It is ideal to combine the waist belt with a harness and amortized leash.
Muzzle – the muzzle should perfectly suit the shape of the dog's head and mouth. It should be long enough not to press directly on the dog's nose, wide enough on the cheeks and deep enough to allow the dog to open its mouth and cool off. A metal, rubberized, or plastic muzzle is recommended for everyday wear (choose considering that while metal is heavier than plastic, it is more durable and more "CSW-proof").
Nail clippers – it's possible that you won't need this tool as much in the end, but not all surfaces will sufficiently abrade dog claws. Overgrown claws can then hinder the dog and make the paws painfully crooked, so it is good to trim them regularly (every 2-3 weeks). And although it can happen over time, do not try to trim the dog's claws until they are little nubs; dogs, and especially vlcaks, need claws to move effectively over terrain, whether climbing rocks or turning and braking on soft ground.
Detangling brush – it is possible that during the dog's life you will be forced to alternate between several combs, depending on how his coat will change, whether it will be shedding summer coat or winter coat. In all cases, however, it can drastically reduce the amount of hair in the home; at the same time, you will also help the dog from possible itching during shedding.
Treat bag – especially in the beginning, you will need to reward the puppy for many things, and very quickly after doing them correctly, so it is convenient to always have treats at hand, conveniently close to the waist.
Tick tweezers
Chewing toys – whether it's purely for fun or as a distraction for a biting puppy, it's a good idea to stock up on things and toys to keep your dog entertained at any age. Some can do with little, such as plastic bottles and boxes, but they will certainly appreciate quality toys, such as KONG rubber toys, various plushies, etc. For the longevity of the toys, I recommend giving the better ones only under supervision, otherwise everything will be chewed up, gutted and in pieces within 5 minutes.